Because there are variables beyond my control (clays, papers, water, mixing errors and etc) always pre test fire what you have before a big project. No guarantee can be offered that 'alternative" commercial paperclays now on the market will meet the all the performance advantages of my high performance trademark P'Clay® brand only available from licensed manufacturers/distributors.
1.Improvise in Session One:
Balance soft coils up in shapes end to end, but avoid fussing over the seams. Go just for the shape. Attend to detail next session, below.
2. Session Two:
Next day, week or whenever you get to it. Brush a quick coat of P'slip® to sea between coils instantly as shown.
coil up soft, then seal at bone dry state
This method is possible only with P'Clay paperclays.
1. Coil …no fussing... just let the soft coils balance upon one another with no water or slurry joining mess. Give the coils time to fully harden some hours in the air overnight or force them dry in sun or warm place. No need to work at leatherhard state like you would if it was traditional clay. In fact leatherhard state paperclay is not as fun as bone dried.
At bone dry, now the shape is tough enough to handle and in no danger of fingerprints, mistaken dents and dings. Plus it has already shrunk as much as it can. Notice it is nearly twice as strong as greenware because of the fibers.
2. Next, brush some watered down P'Slip® slurry over around between the coils to fills in gaps instantly and neatly. Fill in any gaps with soft wet p'clay too. Compare to how much more time it would take to have had to score and slip inbetween the coils as you go which is the rule for tradtional clays.
3. Trim and wipe with a damp sponge AFTER the coils are completely air hardened.
4. Advanced option: Try loose interweaving of soft strips or coils. Easy to handle the bone hard dried form and seal at bone dry. Then, glaze and fire or apply non fire air set finish.
